STORIES by HEARITAGE

History, mythology, culture, and Kerala’s ancient architectural brilliance converge in a single sacred space, the Lokanarkavu. The temple believed to have been built around the 2nd century, is one of the oldest and most revered temple complexes in Malabar. Its earlier name, Lokamalayarkavu meaning the world made of mountain, river, and groves is an enchanting description of the landscape that once surrounded it. Even today, the temple carries the essence of this ancient name, preserving the natural and cultural heritage of centuries.

Lokanarkavu is unique because it is not one temple, but three each dedicated to Vishnu, Shiva, and Bhagavathy and each sitting in a stepwise formation that reflects their historical timeline. The oldest among them, the Vishnu temple, is around 2000 years old; the Bhagavathy temple came 1500 years ago; and the youngest, the Shiva temple, took form about 500 years ago. This architectural sequencing alone makes the complex a living museum of Kerala’s spiritual evolution. The Vishnu temple, one of Kerala’s oldest, is a visual delight with its mesmerizing murals, traditional wooden carvings, and even rare erotic sculptures, an uncommon feature in Kerala temples. It is believed that Lord Parasurama himself enshrined the idol of Vishnu here, who stands uniquely with his right leg forward. From its earliest days, this temple was under the care of the Kamukara Brahmins of Tulu origin, giving it connections beyond Kerala’s borders.

The Bhagavathy temple has one of the most fascinating histories in Malabar. Built in the 5th century by the Nagarakkars, prosperous traders who migrated from Sindh, it reflects the multicultural fabric of ancient Kerala. After flourishing in Kollam, they later settled near Vatakara, renaming their new home Kollam out of nostalgia. Legend says that the clan’s revered mother deity guided them to their new home at Meemunda. When instructed by the Goddess, they shot an arrow from a nearby hillock; where it landed on a jungle tree and is where the Amma decided to reside. A temple was built for her beside the older Vishnu temple, and the deity came to be known as Lokambika. This dramatic origin story is still celebrated today. During the annual festival, a group of youngsters climbs Kottakkal Mala and bursts eleven metal kathinas, symbolically announcing the arrival of the Goddess. 

The third shrine in the complex is the Shiva temple which was built in the 15th century when the Puduppanam village chief sought permission to create a temple between the existing shrines. The Shiva Linga was sourced from the remnants of an older, ruined temple. This shrine is celebrated for its exquisite temple art, especially the detailed woodwork on its walls and ceiling, showcasing the mastery of Kerala’s traditional artisans.

For centuries, the Nagarakkars managed both the Vishnu and Bhagavathy temples before handing administration to the Nelliyott Moossath and eventually to the Kadathanad Royal Family. Lokanarkavu rose to great prominence in the 16th century when the legendary warrior Thacholi Othenan became a devout worshipper of the Goddess. Even today, the ballads of North Malabar echo his reverence, keeping alive the martial traditions of the region. Lokanarkavu is not just a spiritual destination, it is also a cultural powerhouse. The great Carnatic maestro Chembai Vaidyanatha Bhagavathar is believed to have been born near the temple, and many of his performances took place within these sacred grounds. The temple’s annual festival, held in Meenam (mid-March to mid-April), is a spectacular celebration of ancient art forms. Lokanarkavu is the only temple where the vibrant Poorakkali is performed, a rhythmic ritual dance that resembles the graceful movements of Kalaripayattu. Another rare art, Thacholikkali, blending elements of Kathakali, Kolkali, and Velakali, is performed exclusively here, making the festival a cultural treasure for visitors.

To walk through Lokanarkavu is to walk through layers of history, stories of migrating traders, warrior legends, goddesses who chose their own abode, royal families, musicians, and artisans. Every mural, every courtyard, every ancient carving whispers tales of a bygone era.