STORIES by HEARITAGE

The heritage of Kerala is inseparable from its architecture as a tradition shaped by climate, materials, craftsmanship, and an unbroken cultural memory. Nowhere is this architectural wisdom preserved more completely than at Padmanabhapuram Palace, a palace complex that stands not merely as a royal residence of the past, but as a living encyclopedia of traditional Kerala building science. Though geographically located in present-day Tamil Nadu, the palace remains a cultural jewel of Kerala, maintained by the Government of Kerala as a testimony to Travancore’s architectural legacy. Also known as Kalkulam Palace, Padmanabhapuram was the seat of power of the Travancore kings for over two centuries, until the capital shifted to Thiruvananthapuram in the late 18th century. Spread across nearly 6.5 acres and enclosed within massive laterite fort walls, the palace is considered the oldest surviving wooden palace complex in India and one of the finest preserved in Asia.

The earliest structure within the complex dates back to the beginning of the 17th century. Around 1601, Iravi Varma Kulasekhara Perumal built a modest residence for his mother in the traditional nalukettu style. This structure, known as the Thai Kottaram, still stands today and forms the emotional and architectural heart of the palace. Archaeological evidence suggests that the surrounding town of Thuckalay once housed several such royal and noble residences, now lost to time. The palace, however, assumed its monumental form during the reign of Anizham Thirunal Marthanda Varma, who ascended the throne in 1729. A visionary ruler and astute statesman, Marthanda Varma unified Venad into the powerful Kingdom of Travancore and chose Padmanabhapuram as his capital. In 1750, he rebuilt the palace on a grand scale, transforming it into a royal complex that symbolised both political authority and divine sanction.

One of Marthanda Varma’s most defining acts was the Thrippadidanam, the ceremonial surrender of his kingdom to Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple. Declaring himself Padmanabha Dasa (servant of the deity), he ruled in the name of Lord Padmanabha. Padmanabhapuram Palace thus became not just a royal residence, but symbolically the abode of the deity himself. Architecturally, the palace is a masterclass in Thachu Shastra, the ancient science of carpentry and construction. Every structure within the complex adheres strictly to principles governing orientation, proportion, ventilation, and function. Built almost entirely from wood like teak, rosewood, jackfruit, and medicinal timbers, the palace demonstrates how organic materials were expertly used to create durability, comfort, and beauty. The fortification walls, constructed of massive laterite stones, were laid first. Within them, fourteen major structures were arranged to facilitate seamless movement, hierarchy, privacy, and ritual purity. Despite its vastness, the palace initially appears deceptively simple from the outside which is a deliberate architectural choice. Its true grandeur reveals itself only as one walks through the succession of courtyards, corridors, and halls that unfold rhythmically within.

The palace floors are among its most astonishing features with polished to a mirror-like finish using a traditional mixture of lime, egg white, charcoal, herbal extracts, and crushed shells. This finish, still intact after centuries, reflects the advanced material knowledge of Kerala’s artisans. Ventilation was achieved without mechanical aids. Covered corridors connect all buildings, while discreet air inlets and high sloping roofs allow hot air to escape naturally. Even during humid summers, the interiors remain cool which is a testament to climate-responsive architecture perfected long before modern engineering.

Each building within Padmanabhapuram served a specific function. The Poomukham and Poomukha Malika is the ceremonial arrival hall adorned with exquisite wooden carvings and gabled roofs. Above it lies the Mantrasala where the king’s council chamber is & is an architectural jewel with insulated wooden walls, a lofty ceiling, and symbolic seating arrangements. The Thai Kottaram which is the oldest structure, built in classic nalukettu style, designed for the women of the palace. Its courtyards, verandas, and the sacred Ekantha Mandapam reflect domestic architecture elevated to royal refinement. The Thekke Kottaram is entirely made of wood and this southern palace is said to have been constructed using timber salvaged from the homes of defeated feudal lords. Today, it houses a heritage museum displaying traditional Kerala household artefacts. The Veppinmuttu and Plamuttu Kottarams are secondary residential quarters reflecting functional elegance rather than ornamentation. A Oottupura which is amassive dining hall capable of serving over a thousand people at a time, illustrating the scale of royal hospitality. The Homapura and Saraswati Temple act as Sacred spaces for rituals and learning, with idols dating back to the 12th century. Ayudhapura (Armoury) is stark and undecorated, designed purely for security and function, with narrow entrances to prevent intrusion. The Central Mansion is a three-storeyed structure housing the treasury, the king’s chamber with the famed sapra manja kattil made of 64 medicinal woods, and the queen’s quarters. Finally the Upparika Malika which is the most sacred and restricted space, believed to be the resting place of Lord Padmanabha. Adorned with murals, it remains closed to visitors even today. Two later additions enhanced the palace’s cultural life: Navarathri Mandapam which is a Dravidian-style performance hall with monolithic stone pillars and a mirror-polished kannadithara. Performances here were considered equal in sanctity to temple rituals. The Manimeda (Clock Tower) is a weight-and-pulley clock built by a local blacksmith inspired by Spanish traders. Its chime once echoed up to three miles, marking royal time for the region.

After 1795, repeated invasions, political instability, and administrative shifts led to the capital being moved, and Padmanabhapuram gradually fell into neglect. For a brief period, it even came under Mysore control. Today, however, it stands carefully preserved as a protected monument. In 1993, parts of the palace were converted into a museum displaying bronze and stone idols, royal gifts, and everyday artefacts of palace life. Visiting Padmanabhapuram Palace is not merely sightseeing, it is an immersive journey through Kerala’s architectural intelligence. Every beam, corridor, and courtyard speaks of a time when buildings were crafted to serve nature, ritual, governance, and human comfort in equal measure. To truly appreciate this heritage, visitors are encouraged to explore the palace with the guidance of its knowledgeable guides, whose narratives bring the silent structures vividly to life. Even centuries later, Padmanabhapuram remains a benchmark of sustainable, climate-conscious, and spiritually anchored architecture as an enduring legacy carved in wood and wisdom.