STORIES by HEARITAGE

Place of Interest: Fort <> District: Kasargode

Standing tall on the rugged cliffs of Kasaragod where the Arabian Sea endlessly roars and recedes, is Kerala’s largest and most enduring fortress-Bekal Fort. As waves crash against its walls, drenching its ancient laterite stones, you can almost feel the pulse of history that has echoed here for centuries. Built in the mid-17th century by Shivappa Nayak of the Ikkeri dynasty, this architectural marvel was designed with a singular purpose – to defend.

Nearly three-fourths of its structure extends into the sea, making it a rare example of military architecture that blends seamlessly with nature’s might. But like every great monument, Bekal’s origins are layered with legends. Some believe it was first built by the Kolathiri Rajas, later conquered and reconstructed by Shivappa Nayak while others suggest the fort rose from the ruins of an older structure, once held by local rulers under the Vijayanagara Empire.

Whatever its true beginnings, it was made grand by the famous Shivappa Nayak of the Ikkeri dynasty in the 1650’s. It is also believed that the Kolathiri Rajas built the fort & Shivappa Nayak only conquered it in battle. This story doesn’t have any documentary backing & the reason for its credits is given to Shivappa due to his reputation of building many similar forts around which are still present. As per historians another sequence of events suggest that Shivappa Nayak only reconstructed the fort to its current structure over an existent fort. The place of bekal & its surrounds were under the Vijayanagara empire during the 16th century & when they fell, the Nayaks annexed Tulunadu from Udupi to Kasargod. The Vijayanagara empire had given the reigns of these parts of Tulunad to Chirakkal raja to the west & Kolathiri Rajas to the south. It is said they would have built a small fort which was reconstructed by Shivappa Nayak when he captured it. This story is based on the fact that the older name of the fort was Vekkolath Kotta which has the name similar to the Kolathiri Raja by name of Vadakkelamkur who was 2nd in line to the throne. Whatever may be the story of its origin, the design & construction has been a scene of marvel for many architects across generations. The sight of its grandeur can be viewed from a distance & its presence would have rattled the nerves of any enemy troops. 

Bekal Fort remains a testimony to the vision and strategic genius of its creators. As you step through the zigzag entrance, flanked by deep trenches, you’re instantly transported into an era where every stone was placed with purpose. The design ensured that enemies would find every turn unpredictable and every advance perilous. Inside, the vast expanse opens up with sea bastions, observation towers and underground tunnels that once led to secret exits to the sea itself. Although these tunnels are closed today, their mere presence whispers tales of stealth and strategy. Climb the 30-foot-high observation tower, the tallest in any fort in Kerala and the panoramic view will leave you breathless. The endless blue of the Arabian Sea stretches to the horizon while the inland greenery sways gently in the wind. It’s easy to imagine how in the times of its glory, scanning the waters for approaching ships, ready to sound the alarm would have been a sight to watch.

The fort walls are pierced with hundreds of gun holes, each positioned with precision, upper holes for long-range attacks, middle ones for marching enemies and lower ones for close combat. Unlike most forts, Bekal has no palaces or royal residences or a place of luxury, but of vigilance with a sentinel standing guard against invasions from land and sea. At the entrance stands a serene Hanuman Temple, believed to be as old as the fort itself watching over this mighty structure. Nearby, the mosque built by Tipu Sultan speaks of another era when the fort changed hands between the Ikkeri rulers, Hyder Ali, Tipu Sultan and the British. Each left their mark, but none could erase Bekal’s indomitable spirit.

Today, as the sun sets over the sea, the golden light spills across its weathered ramparts, turning them into molten gold. The rhythmic crash of waves, the salty wind and the timeless silence within the walls together create a moment where history feels alive. Bekal Fort is not just a monument, it’s an experience with a living story of endurance, power and the artistry of a bygone age. Whether you are a history lover, a photographer or simply a traveler seeking wonder, Bekal will hold you spellbound. 

Story No: 14